Johnson Family

Johnson Family

November 19, 2011

San Gimignano, Italy

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We left Volterra and headed back towards our Villa and then another 15 minutes in the opposite direction to get to this cute city… San Gimignano. Oh, I loved this city! We walked into the city from the town gate and walked up the main cobbled street. No cars within the gates at all.  The girls had fun oohing and ahhing over all the small colored Italian purses along the way. We kept an eye out for the colors that Emily liked the best and discreetly bought one while she wasn’t looking, for her December birthday.

The stone walls, and steep curvy cobblestone streets were beautiful.  We made our way to the Piazza della Cisterna named for the old well standing in the center of the square.  A clever system of pipes drained rainwater from the nearby rooftops into the underground cistern.  This square has been the center of town since the ninth century.  Each Thursday the square fills with a market --as it has for more than a thousand years.

They had strings of lights set up that would have been cool in the dark. We stopped and sat on the fountain steps for awhile before heading on.

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The adjoining Piazza del duomo…  faces the former cathedral.  The twin towers to the right are 10th century, among the first in the town.

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Interesting… about the 14 of 60 towers that have survived:  “Of the original 60 or so towers, only 14 survive.  Before effective city walls were developed, rich people fortified their own homes with these towers: they provided a handy refuge when ruffians and rival city-states were sacking the town.  These towers became a standard part of medieval skylines.  Even after town walls were built, the towers continued to rise  now to fortify noble families feuding within a town (Montague and Capulet-style).” 

A little San Gimignano history… “In the 14th century, San Gimignano’s good times turned very bad.  In the year 1300, about 13,000 people lived here within the walls.  Then in 1348, a six-month plague decimated the population, leaving the once-mighty town with barely 4,000 survivors.  Once fiercely independent, now crushed and demoralized, San Gimignano came under Florence’s control and was forced to tear down its towers  …and Florence redirected the vital trade route away from San gimignano.  The town never recovered, and poverty left it in a 14th-century architectural time warp.  That well-preserved cityscape, ironically, is responsible for the town’s prosperity today.”

We, of course, were excited to climb one of the towers.  This one ended with a one person ladder to climb up.  The view was incredible.

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“San Gimignano is surrounded by olives, grapes, cypress trees and – in the Middle Ages – lots of wild dangers.  Back then, farmers lived inside the walls and were thankful for the protection.”

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On the way back down… Megan and Emily

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We got REALLY good gelato here.  So good that Grandpa went back and ordered another cone of the same stuff. 

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We had such a great Tuscany trip.  Great places.  Great food.  Great weather.  So fun to have Grandma and Grandpa here to share it with.  The next day we packed up and headed back to Milan, where we returned Del and Shelley’s nice rental car and put them on a train – with Ryan and Katie – to travel home for another week of fun.

November 18, 2011

Volterra, Italy

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Volterra was just a fifteen minute drive from our Villa.  The kids were shocked with the short drive.  “What?  We’re here?” We parked just outside the city wall and walked in under a huge arch to a quiet side street.  The doors and archways, and door knockers were just cool.  I loved them all.

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When we got down closer to the center of town we realized something. We were the only tourists. All of the other people filling the streets were locals going about their Saturday morning activities. The coolest thing was how many people were just standing in circles talking to each other at every turn. It was ‘authentic small Tuscan town’ at it’s best –where everyone knows everyone -- and we were enamored by it.

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Roman Theater Ruins

Volterra ruins

At the edge of town we found a playground for the kids to play on while Del, Shelley and I checked out this old amphitheater which was built in 10 BC and considered to have the best acoustics of its kind.  It was eventually buried and rediscovered in the 1950s.  The stage wall was standard Roman design – with three levels from which actors would appear: one for humans, one for heroes, and the top one for gods.    In the fourth century AD the town decided to abandon the theater and use its stones to build fancy baths instead,  exactly behind the theater.

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Only part of two of the three level stage survives.

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Volterra rooftops

I don’t have a picture of us with our hot pizza’s because we were too busy devouring them.  I think maybe my favorite pizza of the whole trip!  Man alive was it good.

Volterra pizza

Saturday morning was market day so the squares by the churches were crammed with market vendors – really it seemed like a small Italian department store had showed up section by section in different old vans to sell basics… undershirts, shoes, coats, bras.  Below… the food market in front of the church was just shutting down.  By noon the streets were pretty empty. Just a family of 8 + 2 grandparents.

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Emily and Grandpa…

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Volterra Johnson family